Mount Robson - North Face IV This remote and elegant ice face is one of the most popular north faces in the range. A classic north face route on a big mountain. The approach is somewhat lengthy but don't let this deter you; the route is well worth the grunt to get there. It's best to get a very early start so you climb the majority of the face at the coldest part of the day and get down as far as possible before nightfall. The difficulty is determined by the depth and condition of snow on the face. The route has been climbed in two days car to car but three or four days are more usual. The first objective is to get to the Helmet-Robson col. Cross the Robson River about 0.5 km from Berg Lake and grovel up talus slopes at the base of the Mist Glacier to the rock buttress between the Mist and Berg glaciers. Start off to the left of Mist Glacier and work your way up ledges to the top of the buttress, finishing off just west (right) of the prow. Cross the Berg Glacier to the Helmet-Robson col. 4-6 hours from Berg Lake. Most parties bivi here and start the face early the next morning. From the col walk across to below the face and ascend right up the middle of the snow/ice slope (50-55 degrees), going to the right at the top to avoid the usually large cornices. Wrestle with the last stretch of the Emperor Ridge to the summit. Descent is usually via the Kain route, though some parties go down the Normal Route. |
