from Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies

Kid Goat is the southernmost and smallest of the east-facing cliffs on the south ridge of Goat Mountain, the prominent peak that forms the mountain front immediately southwest of Yamnuska. Nanny Goat is the next cliff north. Both cliffs offer an unusual style of climbing on rough-textured rock. Because of their orientation, the cliffs warm up early in the morning but go out of the sun in early afternoon. It is also worth noting that they seep badly for a couple of days after rain. The routes on Kid Goat are fully equipped but gear is needed for Nanny Goat. Take two ropes for either destination.

Approach
Park at a paved pull-off on the south side of Highway 1A a short distance east of the mountain front. Cross the highway and follow a gravel road to an intersection. Take the right fork to a landfill site. Turn right and skirt the east side of the landfill, then turn left and skirt the north side, picking up a gravel track. Follow this track a short distance through trees, turn left on another gravel track and continue to a small gravel extraction site. Above, the track steepens significantly. This steep section is clearly visible in the centre bottom of the photo. To get to Kid Goat, continue up the track, which soon narrows to trail width. At a fork in the trail you can continue straight up or branch left. To get to Nanny Goat, look for a faint trail that contours along the slope to the right soon after the track steepens. Follow this trail through a short section of forest to the watercourse that descends from the gully between Kid Goat and Nanny Goat (the watercourse is easily found even if you miss this section of trail). A bicycle is useful to this point. The trail now turns straight uphill, following first the left side of the watercourse and then the right. When you reach Nanny Goat, the Predator Area will be immediately to your right. The approach to either Kid Goat or Nanny Goat takes about 40 minutes. Nanny Goat is easily accessible in about 5 minutes from Kid Goat and vice-versa.

Note: The access details for the landfill site and the area around it may change in 2000 or 2001; however, access will be maintained by the land managers and the basic idea of the route to the cliffs will remain the same.

Kid Goat
A True Stories* 10a/b
B Lies and Whispers* 10b
C Coarse and Juggy** 9
D Dawntreader* 9
E The Swell* 10a
F Half Life* 9
G Smoking Mirror** 10b

Kid Goat
G Smoking Mirror** 10b
H Wave Goodbye** 11a
I Max Headroom** 10d
J Diehard* 10a
K New Hope for the Dead** 10a
L Talk Dirty to Me** 10a
M Takedown** 10c
N Feeding Frenzy** 10b
O Divers from the Anaerobic Zone* 10b
P Shakedown* 10a
Q Syzygy** 10c
R Slow Hand 9
S Breakdown* 11a

Nanny Goat, Predator Area
A Peep Show** 10b
B Blue Movie* 10b Rocks 1-2
C Fadeout* 10a Rock 3
D Freeze Frame* 10a
E Predator** 10c Rocks 1-8, Friends 1-4

Nanny Goat, Overnight Sensation Area
A Nightland* 9 small Rocks
B Bedtime Story* 10b
C Overnight Sensation 10d
D Into the Night* 10b
D/C Night Sensation** 10d
E Evening Star* 10a
F Nightcap 9 Friend 1.5