Amadeus III 5.9 (M5) WI4, 70 m

A great early season route that usually melts out after the first chinook. It rarely forms as an ice route but comes in as a mixed climb every year. A direct start straight up to the hanging dagger has been climbed on very bad gear. The regular mixed variation traverses in from the right and is fairly well protected.

Approach: Park on the east side of Highway 40, 4.7 km south of the Barrier Lake Visitor Centre. A good summer trail heads through the woods and into a drainage that is followed up steep, compact scree to the base of the route. 1 hour.

Gear: Standard mixed rack.

1) 5.9 (M5) WI4, 30 m. From a rock belay (one bolt and cams) high on the right side below a rock chimney, climb a shallow rock grove out left for a few metres, then traverse left into a corner. Get some good gear before belly flopping onto the water-polished slab. Grovel up onto your knees and eventually your feet, then traverse left again to the ice (run out), which is climbed to a shelter belay on the left of the upper pillar.

2) WI4, 40 m. Climb ice to the top.

Descent: Double rope 60 m rap to the ground.