Numerous features come to a dramatic union in the Ghost River to produce a most unique and unforgettable rock climbing arena. There are over 200 kilometres of steep cliff line in the region. In June and July when the wildflowers are in bloom, it is simply beautiful. Plus, the remote and relatively wild nature of the Ghost Valley adds a strong adventure component that has as much to do with the climbing as the routes themselves.

By local standards, the Ghost has climbing on above average rock. To date, however, it is woefully underdeveloped. Although the Ghost has one of the longest climbing histories in the area, it would be fair to say that the present state of development is in the same position the Bow Valley was some 10-12 years ago. The Ghost is a virtual candy store and will remain so for decades to come.

Included in this book is a chapter on the rock climbs of Waiparous Creek, which lies to the north of Black Rock Mountain, and along with its tributaries is pretty much the most northerly extension of the Ghost's dramatic cliff lines. However, it is considered a totally separate venue because getting there makes the rest of the Ghost seem casual.

How to get there
The Ghost can be reached in 60 to 90 minutes from either Calgary or Canmore. From Calgary, head west on Highway 1A (Crowchild Trail) to the town of Cochrane (your last chance for gas) and a four-way stop junction with Highway 22. Continue west through the stop for 13.4 km to a right (north) turn on to the Secondary Route 940 (Forestry Trunk Road), also known as Highway 40.

From Banff/Canmore, the quickest route is to follow the Trans-Canada Highway east to the Chief Chiniki/Morley turnoff and follow the Morley Road north to the 1A highway, then turn right. SR 940 is another 15.5 km east (4 km past the Ghost Reservoir).

Once on the SR 940, continue northwest for 22.7 km to a gated gravel road on your left about 100 m beyond the junction with Richard's Road. Be sure to re-close the gate if you found it that way. Just as you turn on to the gravel road, there will be a large ranch house on the hill to the right. Bear right at a fork after 3 km, just beyond a small bridge. Follow the rough, ever-worsening road for another 13.5 km to the infamous Big Hill overlooking the Ghost River Valley (running north to south) and Devil's Gap (straight ahead). At the bottom of the hill there is a sign, "Black Rock Lookout Hiking Trail." All further access descriptions with one exception (The Anti-Ghost) start from this point.

Most vehicles will be able to reach the top of the hill, and if yours isn't up to the rigors of the Ghost itself, park in a clearing on the right at the top of the hill. Devil's Gap is about a 30 minute walk from here. If you wish to climb on the more northerly crags without a vehicle, a mountain bike is recommended. It is important to note that the Ghost River floods almost every spring. The riverbed along the base of the Big Hill is usually dry but can at times be a raging torrent. If this is the case, don't even attempt to cross by car or foot. More importantly, these floods change (i.e. eliminate) roads, carve steep banks and give the Ghost its sometimes deserved reputation for difficult access. At present (1997) it is recommended that you have good clearance or a 4WD. Faint tracks and roads abound in the Ghost. If a section ahead looks impassable, you can usually find an alternative. Take your time and if in doubt, scout ahead or walk. All parking areas are a 15-30 minute drive from the Big Hill if you don't get stuck.

EPITAPH WALL






Creamed Cheese***	     11a       2-4 pins, small wires/RPs, cams to #3 Camalot
Prosopopiea**                11b/c     gear to #4 Camalot, extra med. 3-4 pins
The Wraith***                 9          stnd rack, extra 2-3"

The large stepped corner on the right side of Grey Ghost Wall defines the left edge of this wall; Phantom Tower defines the eastern end. This wall is dedicated to passing friends. May their spirit and dreams stay with us. Epitaph Wall has large sections of what appears to be rotten, overhanging yellow rock. Subsequently, it is home to fewer routes than its neighboring Grey Ghost Wall. The three full-length routes are, however, some of the few routes that can compete with the Grey Ghost Wall in quality. All are superb and must-do's.

Approach
At the Black Rock Lookout sign at the bottom of the Big Hill, turn left and go a short distance to a steep break in the bank that puts you into the riverbed. Follow various cobble stone roads south until it is possible to cross near the south end of a large artificial (rocks & chain link) embankment. Beware of another steep bank climbing out of the river. Follow a good road south for about 100 m to where it turns west. Shortly after the road turns west there will be a three-way intersection. At this point the Banff Park service has attempted to erect a sign indicating the approaching park boundary and some previously published descriptions for the area include this sign. However, the sign rarely lasts more than a few weeks before one of the many maraudin', offroad recreationists takes care of it. Anyway...

The first branch turns due south (left) and leads along the east side of Orient Point for an indeterminate distance. The remaining two offshoots both lead into Devil's Gap.

The middle branch turns left, goes down a bank then winds through the trees for another 2km to a large sign indicating Banff Park. Make a sharp right turn and go a short distance to a meadow near the river. Park here-it is illegal to drive farther and it doesn't get you closer to the climbs anyway.

If you go straight from the three-way intersection the road picks its way across gravel flats and through trees past a variety of parking/camping areas. Follow a good gravel track along a large diversion bank to a break on the left that gives access to the above-mentioned meadow area near the park boundary.

Access via the middle branch is dictated by ruts that are sometimes deep and muddy. A short wheelbase or high clearance is recommended for this option. Be careful in the spring when the road is muddy or drifted with snow. The straight-ahead variation is tough if you're short on power/traction - you might get bogged down in loose cobblestones and gravel. If all of this sounds iffy, walk.

Of the eight major walls on the north side, each one reaches at least 200 metres in height with several striving for well over 300 metres. The four eastern-most formations are spurs off the Phantom Crag massif and are the only formations with recorded climbs. Each are separated by gullies of varying size and character. They are from east to west: 1) Phantom Tower, 2) Epitaph Wall and Grey Ghost Wall, 3) Bonanza Wall and Wild West Wall, and 4) Spectre Crag.

Follow a trail right (east) from the base of the Grey Ghost Wall to a short scree slope that ends near the start of "Creamed Cheese." Near the top of the slope there is a small detached pillar that marks the left side of the Spirit Pillar area. "The Wraith" is another 80 m right of the detached pillar and 50 m left of the deep gully that separates Epitaph Wall from Phantom Tower. The crag is reached in 45-50 minutes from the car.

Descent
Walk left and use the Bonanza Descent Gully.

***Creamed Cheese 310 m 5.11a
B. Gross & C. Quinn, Aug. 1987
This monumental route was first started by Brian Gross, Choc Quinn and David Cheesmond. The trio made several efforts and reached the top of pitch four before David was lost while attempting the Hummingbird Ridge on Mount Logan. The remaining pair, along with Al Pickel, sorted out the fifth pitch on the penultimate attempt. Gross and Quinn returned to polish off the route, which included the spectacular sixth pitch. The pair wanted to name the route the "Dave Cheesmond Memorial" until Gillian, David's widow, christened the route "Creamed Cheese." Pitches 4, 5 and 6 have several options as to where to belay. The description below is that taken on the first ascent and includes several single bolt anchors. The topo shows a second option that eliminates one pitch and helps avoids the inadequate anchors. The route is regularly done without pitons, although a few knifeblades and the occasional angle might be welcome.

The route starts about 20 m left of the detached pillar that identifies the Spirit Pillar area. Look for a large blocky ledge system 10 m off the ground that leads left to an obvious right-facing chimney.

The first ascent party rappelled the route from single bolt anchors at the top of pitches 8, 6, 4 and 2. This is not a good option at any time, and especially not after the bolts are nearly 10 years old. Do not attempt to rappel the route. Descend the Bonanza Descent Gully.

1. 45 m, 5.6. Several options lead up to a blocky ledge system that gains access to a large right-facing chimney. Climb the chimney to a large ledge directly below the big yellow corner.
2. 45 m, 5.9+ R. Move up left over some blocks to a small ledge. Climb a steep wall (5.9, runout) to a small left-facing corner and roof. Traverse right to a crack splitting the roof. Climb this (5.9+) to a short wall leading onto a good ledge. Traverse right to the main corner (runout), which is then climbed for 15 m to a good ledge on the right with a bolt belay.
3. 45 m 5.10c R. Traverse right from the belay to some pockets (Friends or Tri-cams) near the edge of a broad arete. Climb the arete trending right to gain a short crack on the right-hand side. Climb this up and left to good holds then back right to a small ledge below a steep wall. Launch up the wall to a bolt (hidden from below) then continue to easier ground in a ramp leading up and left to a ledge with a piton and bolt belay.
4. 25 m, 5.11a. Climb the short but "gently impending wall" above the belay past two bolts. There are in fact three bolts, however, the first one is part of the belay. Above the second bolt there are several hard moves with ledge fall potential. The climbing quickly, however, gets much easier and leads up and right past several ledges to a single bolt belay below a steep brown wall. At this bolt there is a small plaque commemorating David Cheesmond.
5. 40 m, 5.10c. Climb the steep face past three bolts to a ledge system below the major roofs. Traverse right and make an awkward move into the large right-facing corner capped by an absolutely huge roof some 30 m above. Either belay here (pitons recommended) or if possible combine it with the following pitch.
6. 15 m, 5.7. Continue up the corner to a solid natural belay on a narrow ledge.
7. 40 m, 5.10a R. Traverse right on the ledge over the prominent water streak to a bolt. Continue right on the ledge to where it fades out. Step down and then climb across to a break that leads up to a good ledge. This is where the fun begins. Climb the unprotected but immaculate wall above on widely spaced holds. The line of least resistance seems to go up from the ledge, then trend left, then back right and up to an ill-defined corner. Follow the corner to a small, flat perch with a piton and bolt belay.
8. 40 m, 5.9. Climb up and right to a bolt. Continue up and right on excellent rock through corners and ledges until a single bad bolt on a good ledge 10 m below the top of the crag.
9. A short pitch of easy 5th class leads to the scree and eventually a tree belay. It is possible to combine pitches 8 and 9.

The obvious feature of this route is the arching right-facing corner in the middle of the wall. After five-and-a-half pitches it joins "Creamed Cheese" at the large corner left of the prominent water streak and finishes as per that route. The rather exact gear descriptions are courtesy of Keith whose original, enthusiastic topo set some sort of record as it ran into four detailed pages.

Twenty metres right of the detached pillar there is an arching overhang just off the ground. The route starts up the crack that splits the left side of the roof (an angle piton is easily visible). There are numerous other cragging routes on either side of the route. See the Spirit Pillar topo in the book for details.

1. 25 m, 5.10+ R. Climb up and left to the crack through the roof to a "so-so" fixed angle piton (10d). Climb the crack and on to a slab and up to a no-hands rest and a the only bolt on the route. Move left around a bulge and go up through a series of difficult "fins" that take "wires in between some of them, but everything flares, so it's all dubious." Continue up and right with increasing difficulty past a good fixed pin to a small ledge and a good natural belay below a right-facing corner.
2. 30 m, 5.10b. Climb the corner with great gear (10b) and eventually break onto the left arete (not steep) and a small stance below a blank wall. Continue up the unprotectable face on perfect rock (5.8) for 12 m to a natural belay around an enormous block on top of the Spirit Pillar formation.
3. 35 m, 5.11a. Move left from the belay past some loose blocks to a large flake with a fixed knifeblade. Continue left along the flake to a second knifeblade at the end of the flake. Back up the pin with a #4 Camalot "stuffed into an obtuse corner at the base of the overhanging wall kind of like it would if you were to try to cam it between your floor and the wall" and traverse left to make the committing Hintersteiner Traverse. This is a blind, dynamic launch leftwards to reach the edge of a left-facing corner. Continue up the corner (5.9) on immaculate rock (medium cams) to a slab and bomber natural stance on the slab "below the start of the big mofo yellow dihedral." Belay as far left as possible to avoid rock fall from the next pitch.
4. 35 m, 5.11b/c. Climb the large right-facing corner with good nut protection to a loose, crumbling roof. This is "steep, strenuous and technical" but well protected with small to medium cams. Continue carefully past "the milk crate" on continuously steep and strenuous terrain. Scratch up to an excellent natural anchor and stance with nuts and medium cams.
5. 50 m, 5.10d. Climb up the exceptionally sustained corner "straying out onto the left wall where it seems like that would make easier climbing and back right into the corner for gear when you think you could get it." The corner ends with a short, very strenuous overhanging section that ends at an "airy and scary one-person perch" to the left. Belay off three fixed pitons and a "useless TCU."
6. 50 m, 5.9 R. Move left from the belay with the unprotected 5.9 crux coming in the first few moves. Continue on excellent rock up and slightly left aiming for the right-facing corner on pitch 6 of "Creamed Cheese." The only gear before the corner is a #1 TCU in a small slot about three-quarters of the way. The first ascentionists belayed on pitons on a ledge of "Creamed Cheese." It is recommended, however, to climb the "Creamed Cheese" corner (5.7) to a good natural belay (medium cams) at a small ledge. The rest of the route finishes as per "Creamed Cheese."

Ten metres to the right of "Addam's Family" is a large detached block. Continue right for another 10 m to a prominent corner crack that begins on a ledge about 5 m off the ground. There is sometimes a small cairn at the base.

1. 45 m, 5.8. Climb loose rock to the ledge below the corner crack. Excellent climbing with good protection leads to a large ledge with a two bolt belay.
2. 40 m, 5.9. Step down and traverse left across the slabby wall to the arete and make a hard move up and round the corner and onto a small ledge. Traverse left across a shallow scoop (bolt) and over a cracked pillar to good ledges. (Some parties have gone underneath the cracked pillar.) Continue up to the highest ledge at the base of a steeper section.
3. 40 m, 5.8+. Traverse right across the steep wall to a piton. Make a hard move up and continue up and right to a belay on a slab at the base of the prominent corner.
2. alt. 20 m, 5.9. Step down and traverse left across the slabby wall to the arete and make a hard move up and round the corner and onto a small ledge. Traverse left across a shallow scoop to a bolt. Climb up and back right on excellent rock (5.7 runout) to a corner. Climb the corner to a good ledge with a solid belay off mid-sized camming units. With double ropes, this belay offers a good top rope for the second on the arete move.
3. alt. 50 m, 5.9. Climb the short corner above to a ledge (piton). Climb the steep face above up and left past four bolts to good ledge systems. Continue to a belay on a slab at the base of the prominent corner.
4. 45 m, 5.8 or 5.9. Above the belay, move left around a bulge (5.8) or alternatively climb the thin crack directly up the corner (5.9+). Follow the steep hand-crack to a large ledge in the corner.
5. 45 m, 5.9. Continue up the sustained corner past a roof to a ledge. Continue upwards to a smaller ledge below a blocky overhang. An incredible pitch! 6. 35 m, 5.8. Climb the overhang (it is not as hard as it looks) and into the corner above. Traverse up and left across the slab to a bolt. Continue left to a blocky corner. Make an awkward move over this and up into a surprising gully. Step over the edge and find a belay in a variety of blocks or against the opposite wall.
7. & 8. 80 m, 5.6. Easier climbing up the gully or on the grey rock to the right leads to the top.