Upper Elk Lake to Petain Waterfalls
Rating easy
Distance 6.5 km to Upper Elk Lake campground
10.5 km from park entrance to waterfalls
Elevation gain
76 m (250 ft) Lower to Upper Elk Lakes
91 m (300 ft) Upper Elk Lake to falls
Upper Elk Lake 1737 m (5700 ft)
waterfall base 1830 m (6000 ft)
Trail good
Road any vehicle
Maps 82J/11 Kananaskis Lakes Road Map #13 page 68 Trail Map #16 page 81
Drive
To Elk Lakes Provincial Park: Turn north from Highway 3 at Sparwood onto Highway 43 and drive to Elkford. Continue on the main road past Elkford, heading north for another 71 km on a good gravel road to a parking lot.
I remember one occaison when we camped here. With everything safely stored away, we were tucked into our cosy sleeping bags when a loud humming that was humerous and musical began to fill the air. It was porcupines humming "giggles and squeals" as they scrambled around in the nearby trees. Their humming is like a person making a variety of separate and random tones. I have never heard these creatures make as much noise as they did at this campground.
The rugged and cascading Petain Waterfall is truly captivating with water crashing over a cliff below Castelnau Iceflow. The trek to the base Petain Waterfall offers a chance to stand on the rocks right beside the turbulent cascade which provides a refreshing mountain shower.
Nearby Castelnau Galcier is flanked by cone-shaped summits, Mount McCuiag on the left and Mount Castelnau to the right. The hike leaves Lower Elk Lake and leads to the Englemann spruce and lodgepole pine forest that shelters Upper Elk Lake. The route features high mountain views and a close look at towering syncline formations which are steep, massive vertical rock layers that jut skyward. The trail winds beside the 2.4 km-long shoreline of the narrow Upper Elk Lake.
South of the lake one kilometre on gravel terraces is the Upper Elk Lake campground. The views at sunrise from this place are fabulous. Amber light touching the side of Castelnau Glacier to the south and the vertical fins of the synclines to the north makes this a campsite to remember. The sound of Petain Creek as it babbles happily past adds to the experience. Beyond the campground the trail leads up Petain Creek to the falls.
The distance from the BC park entrance to Lower Elk Lake is 1.5 km. From there, follow the signed trail west along a creek for another 1.6 km to Upper Elk Lake. About halfway to Upper Elk Lake is the signed junction for Viewpoint Trail (stay right for Upper Elk Lake). At the north end of Upper Elk Lake is the signed junction for West Elk Pass (stay left).
Hike for 2.4 km along the southeast side of Upper Elk Lake to reach the other end and continue another one kilometer to the Upper Elk lake campground. Follow the easy path up the dry gravel creek bottom to reach the campsites. The grounds are supplied with a pit toilet, a food cache, firewood and fire rings.
From here to the base of Petain Waterfalls the trail meanders upstream (south) beside Petain Creek. Cross a footbridge and follow the trail through an old-growth spruce forest. The trail bends to the west after about 1.5 km.
About 3.5 km from the campsite and when you first see the waterfalls, locate a faint side trail that branches to the right (almost north). This trail heads uphill to Petain Basin.
To reach the cascade, follow the cairns straight ahead (west) another 50 m to the rim of an old moraine. Rock hop to the very base of these falls and into the heavy mists of shattered water droplets. Castelnau Glacier hangs in white curves high above the creek at this spot, completing the grand view.
 
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